Behind the Seams: From Maternity Leave to Leading UK Fashion Manufacturer
The story of how a passionate seamstress turned a maternity leave hobby into London's most trusted sampling studio
Sometimes the best businesses start with the simplest intentions. For Nailya Belkacemi, founder of Plus Samples, it began with pregnancy boredom and an unwillingness to let her skills gather dust.
It Started With Students (And a Baby on an Ironing Board!)
After over 25 years in the UK fashion industry, working with high street brands across London, Nailya thought maternity leave would be a well-deserved break. But anyone who knows her won’t be surprised that sitting still wasn’t really an option.
“I couldn’t just switch off my passion for garment making,” Nailya recalls. “So I started helping fashion students with their sampling and pattern cutting. It kept my skills sharp and, honestly, it was rather therapeutic!”
What began as a few students popping round soon snowballed. Word spread quickly through London’s fashion colleges – there was this brilliant seamstress who could solve any technical challenge. Before long, Nailya’s front room was bustling with budding designers, fabric samples, and the gentle hum of her sewing machine.
The most endearing part? Her son literally grew up in the business, playing contentedly on the ironing board whilst mum worked her magic on the most intricate evening gowns and bridal pieces.
From Front Room to Fulham (And Beyond!)
As demand grew, so did the need for proper space. Nailya’s dear friend jumped in to help, and together they made the leap to a proper studio in Fulham. It was terrifying and exhilarating in equal measure – the classic small business juggling act of managing everything from client relationships to invoicing, all whilst maintaining the exacting standards that were quickly becoming their signature.
Photo Archive – Nailya’s Son Helping Her at The Studio, 2005
“Those early days were absolutely mad,” Nailya laughs. “I’d be cutting patterns in the morning, doing client consultations at lunch, and finishing hand-sewn details late into the evening – all while juggling childcare and trying to be present for my little one.
As a working mum building a business, I know exactly what it’s like trying to balance everything when you have small children depending on you. I remember once going on Christmas break and ending up cutting patterns in my hotel room – I simply couldn’t let the designer down! But I loved every minute of it, even the chaotic moments.”
The studio continued to evolve, taking on alterations, men’s tailoring, and working with various made-to-measure and ready-to-wear brands. As a dedicated London manufacturer, they moved premises several times across West and North West London, each move teaching them something new about what they needed to create the perfect working environment.
Building the Dream Space
The game-changer came when they found their current North West London premises – completely shell condition, but brimming with potential. Finally, they could design everything exactly as they envisioned: spacious cutting tables, proper lighting, a cosy staff kitchen for proper lunch breaks, and even a rest area where the team could recharge.
“It was like moving from a cramped bedsit to a proper home,” Nailya beams. “Suddenly, we could work the way we’d always dreamed of working.”
But it’s not all work and no play – the team knows how to enjoy life too. From festive Christmas parties to company-sponsored holiday breaks where the whole team can unwind together, they believe that happy people create beautiful work. “We spend more time together than we do with our own families and children,” Nailya reflects, “so creating a friendly, family-like environment isn’t just nice to have – it’s absolutely essential. We work incredibly hard, but we also know how to have fun.”
The Power of Partnership
Today, the studio is a 20-strong team of incredibly skilled dressmakers and cutters, specialising in evening and bridal wear that would make Savile Row tailors weep with envy. Over the years, they’ve worked with some of the most renowned names in fashion, creating garments that have graced the catwalks of London, Paris and Milan, and have even been worn by First Ladies of the UK and USA.
But the real transformation came when Svetlana and Daria joined as partners, bringing their technical expertise and fresh perspective.
Daria handles all client-facing activities with the warmth and professionalism that puts even the most anxious designers at ease. Svetlana manages the technical side with precision that borders on artistry. Together with Nailya, they’ve created what she calls “the powerhouse” – a collaborative approach that treats every project as a partnership.
“We see ourselves as an extension of the designer’s team,” explains Nailya. “In today’s fast-moving fashion landscape, startup brands and small designer teams need to focus on design and sales. That’s where we come in as UK production specialists – handling the technical complexity so they can concentrate on what they do best. There’s something special about Made in Britain quality that our clients value, especially when it comes to the intricate detailing we’re known for.”
The Art of Problem-Solving
What might surprise people is that it’s often the simplest garments that pose the biggest challenges. That perfectly cut white shirt or beautifully draped slip dress? They require absolute precision – there’s nowhere to hide.
“Give us the most avant-garde, complicated evening gown, and we’ll tackle it with glee,” Nailya grins. “But it’s often the beautifully simple pieces – a perfectly cut shift dress or an elegant silk blouse – that demand the most skill. When there’s nowhere to hide, every seam, every line, every proportion has to be absolutely flawless. That’s the beauty of this work – it never stops challenging you.”
The studio also understands the competitive, sometimes secretive nature of fashion development. Even whilst working with multiple brands simultaneously as a trusted UK manufacturing partner, they take every precaution to safeguard designs until they’re ready for the public eye.
Looking Forward
As Plus Samples continues to evolve (watch this space for exciting developments!), we’ve also expanded to meet the diverse needs of our clients. Today, we operate two separate businesses: Plus Samples, focusing on our signature evening and bridal wear expertise, and our Pattern Cutting Studio, which specialises purely in product development for a broader range of garments and budgets. This allows us to serve everyone from luxury designers to emerging brands just starting their journey.
One thing remains constant across both ventures: the passion for exceptional craftsmanship and collaborative partnership that started in Nailya’s front room all those years ago.
From maternity boredom to industry recognition, from students to established brands – it’s been quite the journey. And honestly? We’re just getting started.
Want to be part of our story? Get in touch to discuss your next project – we’d love to help bring your vision to life