Pin hem is an extensively used way of finishing edges on sheer and delicate fabrics yet mostly it’s disliked. There are tons of tutorials on how to make a pin hem (or rolled hem) with step by step instructions explaining and over explaining the process. However all of them fails to point out 3 crucial factors of achieving a beautiful and even hem finish.

Taking into account  all of the below will help you to breeze through your next try at sewing pin hems.

1.Wrong choice of fabric

It’s obvious but often forgotten: pin hems are for light weight fabrics! When you are considering the hem finish, run a test first on 2 pieces of fabric joint together with the same type of seam you will have on your garment. There will be no problem making a pin hem on a single layer of cotton, linen  or even light weight wool until it hits the side,centre,back/front or panel seams. Most often pin hems look untidy or bulky on a junction with the other seams or become impossible to turn.

TROUBLESHOOTING: You could always consider using other seam finishes if a pin hem doesn’t work that well or scrap the idea all together. There are lots of other worthy hem finishes which we will cover in our blog posts. Click here here to subscribe to our news letter to be in the know about our new blogs and special offers.

2. Wrong tools and equipment

You’ve decided to go ahead with the pin hem finish, than make sure you’ve got right tools to hand.

  • Depending on the thickness of the fabric a 1 or 1.5 mm topstitching foot should be used for the even width of the hem and speed of sewing.
  • Choice of your needle size is crucial. At Plus Samples we usually use size 60/8 (up to 70/10) needles for a pin hem. It’s impossible to get a narrow hem finish with a thick needle.
  • Scissors used for the trimming off the hem allowance have to be lightweight with sharp pointy tips and thin and long blades

3. Wrong trimming of the hem allowance

Unevenly trimmed hem allowances after the first stitch would make it more difficult, or in case of rigid fabrics impossible, to achieve an evenly turned hem.

Here at Plus Samples we understand importance of the ready-to-wear product to be as beautiful on the inside as on the outside. Widely used pin hems and french seams is not the only possible solution for the finish of a high-end garment. During garment development or at our pre-production meeting we would be able to discuss and suggest possible garment finishes to stay within your budget without sacrificing to the final look of the designer outfit.